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| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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Mango
If you're as tired as we are of that tedious drive to Cuzco every time you're in the mood for a decent Peruvian meal, take heart. Ceviche is as Peruvian as those irritating street-corner pipe-flute bands, and Mango's versions are completely credible, the tilapia and mussels and shrimp all "cooked" in a basting of lemon juice along with big slices of red onion. The side of cancha, a fried hominy, is essential for ceviche; the cold sweet potatoes and corn-on-the-cob slices refreshingly authentic. Seco de carne, flank steak marinated in herbs and fried, is bright with the tang of cilantro and a hint of chile.Shredded pork, chopped olives and sweet onions offer a distinctive Peruvian take on masa tamales, steamed in banana leaves. Pan-fried yuca and plantain chips are delicious sides. You'll be disappointed that Peru's guinea pig isn't on the menu. And it's chicken breast instead of the traditional tripe in cau-cau, a rice stew flavored with mint and saffron. But the meat-stuffed potato dumpling papas rellenas taste as if you're in the Andes rather than a Shrewsbury strip mall.
Do try: The "tiger milk" liquid left at the bottom of the ceviche plate, perfect for slurping with a dash of pisco (a distilled grape liqueur, the national drink of Peru, that's the culprit in the notorious pisco
sour cocktail).
7307 Watson, 314-752-8300
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