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| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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Il Bel Lago
There's a waterfall wall. How much cooler can you get? How about another wall that's floor-to-ceiling wine racks? And still another that's a screen with projected images of rustic (is there any other kind?) Italian villages? In appearance alone, Cafe Bellagio has to be one of the classiest new restaurants around. Broad arcs of cloth decorate the ceiling. Just off the main dining area are more private alcoves, and there's a big circular booth in the corner where you can play like Frank entertaining his entourage. (Videos of Rat Pack performances on the aforementioned screen add to the effect.) The food here is as stunning as the decor. Go with the veal cannelloni as an appetizer; then you're on your own. You can't make a mistake. Oversized ravioli are stuffed with hunks of sea bass, spinach and mushrooms, then drizzled with a satiny sauce hinting of sherry. A mushroom-studded risotto explodes on the palate with the pungency of Gorgonzola. A rack of lamb is roasted to pink perfection and aromatic with rosemary. The calamari Livornese is unparalleled, rings of tender squid cooked in oil with capers, black olives, tomato and garlic and tossed with papardelle. Service here is thoughtful, professional and well-timed, so you will never feel you're being hurried through dinner.Don't miss: The torta cioccolata, an alchemical dessert combination of chocolate cake, fudge and mousse.
11631 Olive, 314-994-1080
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