| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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Eleven Eleven Mississippi
Well, sure, there was the yellow fever, fetid water supply, and coal soot dusting anything that stood still too long. But aside from that, early-20th century St. Louis was a rather nice place to live, as is exemplified by the magnificent Lafayette Park neighborhood, still chockablock with meticulously maintained mansions of the era. A stroll here is restorative and rewarding; much the same can be said for its best restaurant. Multiple dining levels, a spacious bar, exposed brick and beam--the interior, once a shoe factory, is distinctive; the menu is similarly so. The kitchen has a flair for matching foods in combinations that leave your fork hovering over the plate, tempted to move in every direction. A saddle of braised rabbit arrives with a dollop of luscious golden polenta spiked with rosemary and porcini mushrooms. Salmon with a horseradish crust comes with a salad of wilted spinach, tiny dried cherries and pine nuts. A tomato-basil risotto is perfect with a roasted chicken redolent with sage, glistening with its own juices. Five-course meals paired with five different wines are held in the private wine room for parties of up to 12. The wine list is proof that quality vintages can be assembled and priced at less than a round-trip ticket to London. A patio surrounded by potted herbs and flowers makes for leisurely dining in warm weather.Don't tell us you passed on: The desserts. White-chocolate truffle cake with a blueberry-and-vodka compote or a creme custard with caramelized bananas and chocolate shavings are among the meal-ending delights that strike a balance, both rich and delicate
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1111 Mississippi, 314-241-9999, www.1111-m.com

