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Arthur Clay's
What do we get in St. Louis? Humidity, bad pronunciation of French names and a MetroLink expansion that's now a decade behind schedule and is going to be more expensive than paving the canals of Mars. What do we want? More pleasant, civilized eateries with kitchens skilled at innovation yet loath to go hog-wild in an attempt to be unique. In other words, we want more places like Arthur Clay's. A suave setting in the middle of Maplewood's urban renaissance, this restaurant has become a destination. The foie gras accompanied by an apple-onion tart is an almost mandatory starter. After that, move on to lamb shanks braised in their own juices until they're so gloriously tender that the dish is almost like a cassoulet, served with cumin-scented buds of gnocchi. Or golf ball-sized sweet peppers stuffed with a tomato-and-fennel risotto. Or a meaty leg of duck confit. Provencal-style tian are a specialty: layered vegetable casseroles slowly roasted after a quick saute in olive oil, delicious enough to compete with the beef tenderloin they accompany. Almond macaroons are held in place with a daub of chocolate ganache. Arthur Clay's is a small storefront place, brick-walled and lively, and its presentations are always entertaining.Fortune smiles: If on the menu is the garlic soup, redolent with the taste of the stinking lily, skillfully complemented with some spicy, peppery mizuna greens and a luscious drizzle of truffle oil.
7266 Manchester, 314-645-0300, arthurclays.com
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