| Photographs by Katherine Bish | |
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Villa Farotto
If you had to move GQ or Elle to get to this magazine on your coffee table, you'll find this hard to believe--but there'll come a time in life when a "big" Friday night will be catching the paper-plate sale at Sam's Club or the two-for-one Underoos special at Wal-Mart. Just because some priorities change, though, doesn't mean they all do. You'll still enjoy a good meal. So when you're out in the Chesterfield Valley at a shopping mecca that covers every consumer need imaginable, you don't have to settle for fast or mediocre food. Villa Farotto is an oasis of moderately priced contemporary Italian fare in a cool, appealing setting. Osso buco draws raves here; the shank is just dunked in hot oil to give it a crispy crust, then slow-braised with vegetables until it nearly falls from the bone. A dollop of Gorgonzola and a red-wine reduction elevate the grilled "Bentley" tenderloin into a steakhouse-quality meal. Mushrooms, wild and domestic, are sauteed in butter and garlic and topped with gooey mozzarella, a terrific appetizer. All pastas are more than worthwhile, from veal-stuffed ravioli to a pesto sauce with linguini and seared scallops. The interior is quiet and comfortably formal, with bright yellows and oranges to accent the whole Tuscany motif. A separate cafe, serving soups and sandwiches, along with a small delicatessen and wine selection, combine with the formal dining here to make Villa Farotto one of the hottest places in Chesterfield, apres-Wal-Mart or otherwise.Take note: The wine list here, with lots of medium-range Chianti and other drinkable vintages, is an underrated bargain
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17417 Chesterfield Airport Road, 636-519-0048, villafarotto.com

