Dining Home Dining Articles Restaurant Reviews Dining Guide Search for restaurants:

Photographs by Katherine Bish

(page 1 of 13)

New restaurants? St. Louis has 'em. They're as common here as tribal-armband tattoos in the Loop. But how about new restaurants with a lifespan longer than a Muny season? And how about those that manage not just to survive but also to flourish because of their remarkable food, outstanding presentations, atmosphere and service? Those are harder to find than weeds on a South City lawn. But finding them is why we get paid the big bucks. And here they are--not the bucks, the best new restaurants in St. Louis:

An American Place

One of the few restaurants with sufficient space overhead to warrant its own air traffic control booth--the waitstaff here could skydive to your table from the soaring ceiling. An American Place is a recent luxurious addition to the already sumptuous Renaissance Grand Hotel downtown. From the grand floral displays to the elegant and comfortable seating (including a pleasant lounge right in the middle of the dining area), all here seems designed to flatter and cater to diners. The menu is relatively brief, yet displays an embarrassment of choices. One of the most experienced chefs in St. Louis has gone to great lengths to assemble ingredients--local when possible and always from top-rated growers or gatherers. From Oregon truffles to Maine scallops, it's tough to go wrong with any selection. Roasted oysters served hot on the half shell. A rack of grass-fed Missouri lamb. A fillet of elk, roasted on the surface but juicy and pink inside. Chicken breast lightly marinated in Chardonnel. Sides such as a pungent blue-cheese dumpling, a tart poached-rhubarb salad, and a series of ragouts with mushrooms and greens, broccoli rabe and pearl-size white beans, all stewed in meat broths, are wonderful. The cheese platter is unparalleled. Specials such as a silky lobster soup and a stew chunky with plump oysters are consistently praiseworthy. This restaurant has been rightfully criticized for its meager portions, a flaw that must be corrected if An American Place is to move from the Best New category to join St. Louis' favorites. But there are few faults with the atmosphere here. No matter how crowded the restaurant--and invariably it is crowded--noises seem to recede, as do cares when one is dining in such
happy surroundings.

Don't miss: Two words: pear flan. Enough said.
800 Washington, 314-418-5800