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Bubble Boy

By Shera Dalin

Simon Lehrer gets downright bubbly when it comes to Champagne. Really good Champagne, that is—the kind that’s available once every three years and sells for $1,000 or more a bottle. His tastes run to the exquisite: that rare bottle of French Krug Clos du Mesnil, available only three times a decade in select locations, and, on the more affordable end, a nice $85 Billecart-Salmon non-vintage rosé. When he’s relaxing over brunch with friends, it’s Duval-Leroy Blanc de Blanc.

“I don’t mind pouring it for mimosas or Kir Royales,” he says. After all, it’s only $40 a bottle.”

Because it’s no fun to drink alone, Lehrer has turned his fiancée, Annie Denny, into a sparkling-wine fan. They often cook at home, sharing a bottle over fried calamari or grilled whitefish—or with popcorn while watching a movie.

“The salt content in the popcorn gives you a burst of bubbles,” he explains.

Fine sparkling wine (not the same beverage as Champagne, which comes only from France) must be consumed from fine sparkling glassware, Lehrer insists. He has a collection of 18 Riedel glasses designed solely for sparkling wine, ranging from $8 to $20 a stem. He doesn’t bother with the $50-per-stem versions, which are virtually guaranteed to break because of their delicacy, he says.

So how did this passion for a fine pour arise? About five years ago, Lehrer began working as the cheesemonger at The Wine Merchant in Clayton. Like so many retail workers, Lehrer had to participate in company meetings to learn more about the product. Unlike so many retail workers, he had a job that entailed drinking excellent wines.

As Lehrer learned, he developed a taste for the sparkling varieties, particularly for Champagne. And the employee discount didn’t hurt.

“The first thing you notice about true Champagne versus sparkling wines is, there are more bubbles,” he says. “There is a definite difference.”

Lehrer’s enjoyment and knowledge of wine grew steadily, to the point that he took a second job as the bar manager at Pomme Café & Wine Bar in Clayton.

At home, surrounded by images of vintage French Champagne advertisements, Lehrer keeps only about three bottles of bubbly on hand at a time. When your life is awash with wine, it’s not necessary to keep cases around the house.

Lehrer’s Best Bubbly

Clos du Mesnil from Krug: “It’s 100 percent Chardonnay, and that’s like drinking a very dry apple cider—the best apple cider you’ve ever had. It’s so special and so delicate that it needs to be drunk by itself.”

Jacques Selosse Rosé: “There are lots of nuances, lots of earthy tones, which is very uncharacteristic. It’s a great food wine because it’s complex. Unfortunately, they don’t import to the U.S. anymore.”

Billecart-Salmon Rosé: “Their rosé is very fruity and rich and robust. But it doesn’t show any of those earthy tones. It’s by far my top choice when I’m out. And luckily, it’s very easy to find at most good restaurants.”

1996 Dom Pérignon: “This is for celebratory occasions—it’s good, and it’s also recognizable. The flavors alone speak, but the name helps people ‘get it.’ And this vintage is the best champagne I’ve ever tasted from their house.”