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| Photograph by Katherine Bish | |
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Grand, formal Italian dining spots: St. Louis has them, though there never seem to be enough. Linens starchy as an Atkins dieter’s dreams. Thick, handsome china and utensils with the heft that elevates function over fashion. A roomy, tile-floored bar. Dining areas with tables widely separated, and a little nook or two for privacy. An ambience not stiff, but quiet; relaxed. The interior is modern and sophisticated, without pretension, though there’s that little stain on the entryway carpet to let you know the place has been around awhile and isn’t going to redecorate on a whim. The place to celebrate an anniversary, a graduation or just a gracious night. A place like Luciano’s Trattoria. It doesn’t hurt that it’s in Clayton’s hottest new nabe.
The modest-sized menu offers classic trattoria cuisine: A mound of chilled, tomatoey caponata is surrounded by slices of prosciutto and salami, with slivers of salty Parmesan cheese and plump, oily olives. This is what antipasti should look—and taste—like. Other starters: Fritto misto combines squid rings with sweet shrimp, fried in a beautifully light batter and resting on a squirt of lemon aioli that is subtle enough to complement the seafood without unduly intruding. Pan-seared scallops atop a tumble of fresh spinach are big, meaty and juicy. A Caesar salad is fine, without a lot of folderol to distract from its essential flavors and textures. It is served in a deep bowl, a nice touch that makes it easier to eat than the common versions diners often pursue all over the plate.
There are four pizzas here, and when ordered along with a salad, each makes a satisfying meal. Go, of course, with the Margherita. Other offerings, such as hamburger, prosciutto and pepperoncini, have their places in life … but the top of a pizza is not among them. The mozzarella on the Margherita is house-made, and that alone should seal the deal.
Pastas, risotto and gnocchi are all specialties worth trying. A massive (easily large enough for two) plate of fragrant, earthy brown risotto arrives studded with slices of grilled chicken and porcini mushroom. There is a generous hand with the saffron in this dish that, along with shavings of Parmigiano reggiano, makes for a sumptuously rich meal. A good risotto like this is thick enough to eat with a fork, but use a spoon, the better to transfer the warm, savory aroma into your mouth. You’ve had far worse plates set before you than the gnocchi con gambero, the knobs of gnocchi house-made and pleasantly chewy, with chunks of Italian sausage, slices of bell pepper and that luscious mozzarella. The touch of saffron in the cream sauce—when tossed with scallops, mussels and clams—puts Luciano’s platter of house-made linguini on a different plane than most similar seafood and
pasta combinations.
Among the house specialties, the veal Milanese is impeccable. The veal is pounded thin and pan-fried until its breading is a dark, crunchy brown. A spray of arugula, a slice of lemon and a flaky shaving of Parmesan dress—but do nothing to distract from—the moist and delicate flavor of the veal. The kitchen refuses the temptation to dress up this dish, allowing the meat to take center stage. If your tastes run to the extravagant, go with the luxurious treatment of veal scaloppini, the breaded cutlets topped with mozzarella, tomatoes and fresh spinach.
Only two steak options appear: a black-pepper-encrusted rib-eye and a steak salad, with romaine, dried tomatoes, balsamic-glazed onions and Gorgonzola. A Marsala-splashed chicken breast is grilled and served with a fluffy mound of mashed potatoes, roasted peppers and wild mushrooms. Fish at Luciano’s gets particular attention—and care not usually seen in a trattoria. Salmon is grilled and served with lobster ravioli, tender green beans and a seafood-scented cioppino broth. Mahi-mahi is pan-roasted, matched with a handful of gnocchi, along with baby spinach and meaty shiitake mushrooms, then drizzled with olive oil infused with rosemary and tomato.
Desserts won’t disappoint. Airy vanilla gelato is stuffed into a pair of chocolate-chip cookies and drizzled with caramel sauce. Or go completely overboard with a white-chocolate bread pudding slathered in caramel sauce and paired with banana ice cream.
Few bargains sully a wine list that is comprehensive but heavy with too-expensive vintages. Perhaps this is a nod to the expense-account trade—the Ritz-Carlton is right across the street. There is a good selection of Robert Parker’s beloved “super Tuscans,” including a splendid ’03 Ornellaia, a combination of cabernet and merlot that’s one of the premier wines of the past decade. More affordable, for pasta dishes, is a crisp ’05 Chateau St. Jean chardonnay. That veal Milanese is sautéed in butter; there is no better match for it than the ’03 Secco-Bertani Valpolicella.
Service is attentive, though not aggressively so, and efficient. Of interest: Some of the more worthwhile dishes featured at this restaurant when it opened about six years ago (like osso buco and duck-meat ravioli) have disappeared from Luciano’s menu. Whether this is because of a lack of customer enthusiasm or due to rising food prices, it’s a loss. The kitchen here is talented and competent, and it would be exciting to see some of the more imaginative presentations of which they are obviously capable.
Parking is the norm for Clayton: Valets commandeer the meters nearby so you’re afforded the opportunity to pay once again for the privilege of parking in a space you already paid for with your taxes. Advice: In all but the most miserable weather, park on the street a few blocks away and stroll to the restaurant. Downtown Clayton is far more amenable to pedestrians than to drivers. It is, thankfully, hospitable as well to graceful dining spots like Luciano’s.
Address: 172 Carondelet
Phone: 314-863-9969
Website: lucianostrattoria.com
Average main course: $17
Reservations: Just to be safe, especially on weekends
Dress: If cleaning the attic’s a 1 on the sartorial scale and meeting royalty’s a 10, aim for a 6 1/2
The bottom line: A first-rate formal Italian dining experience with several fine renditions of Italian trattoria classics
