Relish

OK, those who complain that West County has too few independent restaurants can be silent for one day: The owners of the Corner Pub & Grill have begun construction on The Tavern Kitchen & Bar at 2961 Dougherty Ferry Rd (at Big Bend), a pocket that has of late become a Neo-magnet for restaurants.

The first Corner Pub opened in Oct 2007 in the same center, the second in March of this year. So this makes 3 stores in 3 years, putting them on a Pi-esque pace.What caught my eye though, in this era of copycats, retreads, and redo's, was The Tavern's tag line: exquisite comfort food. I rather like that; better yet, I've never heard it. 

The chef who coined the term is Justin Haifley, a St.. Louis native (Parkway West 1991, if you must) who's returned home sporting some interesting creds: 10 years as an Exec Chef in several Roy Yamaguchi restaurants, appearances on "Live! With Regis and Kelly" and "Good Morning America;" as well dinner stints in the homes of Tommy Hilfiger, Jay-Z and Beyonce, and Sean (insert silly nickname here) Combs.  

Although the owners were hesitant to categorize the new venture, its menu reads "gastropub, with a side of Annie Gunn's," starting off with a pork belly and brioche version of Bacon & Eggs, ratcheting right up to 4 steaks, from an $18 Skirt Steak Fundito to a $32  Dry Aged Ribeye. The mid-section of the menu is equally impressive: two kinds of burgers (a double flat-grilled and the signature Tavern Burger, with Irish cheddar and bacon jam); several ribbon pastas, all housemade; and a respectable smattering of salads, flatbreads, and seafood.  Haifley will even be cooking sous-vide. Side dishes will be, I trust, both exquisite and comforting, from the Parmesan Creamed Spinach to the Tater Tot Casserole. Six steak toppers, including a Bacon Bordelaise, round out the menu. 

Design accoutrements include handmade oak tables, an open kitchen, and what will be (if the Corner Pub's versions are any indication) "gorgeous patio seating."  

The names and sub-headings of this group of establishments seem to indicate an intention to cover all restaurant bases (what, no cafe?). Of note is the "STL" on The Tavern's logo, a tip that this train may just be leaving the station. Which reminds me: The Tavern is on track to open October 1.